Monday 24 May 2010

Buenos Aires*****

We were in Buenos Aires a couple of weeks ago for a quick visit. I haven't felt the same since. Buenos Aires stole my heart. Here is a list of restaurants, tours and things we did that help you if you decide to ever visit this city of more than just good air.

Palermo- my favourite area of Buenos Aires. An area full of top end restaurants, bar, art and designer boutiques. It reminded me of Chapel Street in Melbourne with it's pastel coloured low level buildings and wide tree line streets.

Boca- be warned this is a tourist trap but also a must see for the wonderful coloured caminito's. This is still a working community or barrio and home to the world famous Boca Juniors. Visit Boca early in the day to beat the crowds.


Tigre- Definitely worth a day trip out of the centre to the wonderful town of Tigre. We were lucky as J has family who live in Tigre along with Uncles who live close by who sail and had just bought a speed boat so we could venture around the Delta.



Asado: is the typical way to cook meat in Argentina. Did I mention yet that the Argentineans love meat? Enjoy chorizos, morcillas (black pudding) , chinchulines, mollejas (sweetbread) amongst other cuts of meat.

Cardon Nuestra Cocina- this was dinner on the first night after the obligatory asado in the afternoon, so there wasn't much room left. Cardon Nuestra, is part of a bigger chain of restaurants (most good restaurants are), situated just outside Tigre. If you are in that area it's definitely worth popping by. Informal but great selection of food, including a cold starter buffet and wine list. http://www.cardon.com.ar/principal?seccion=nuestra-cocina

Puerto Arroyan Restaurant : Is a small Parilla restaurant approx. 20 minutes by speed boat from Tigre. I am not sure where but if you ask the locals they will be sure to direct you. We were very lucky at this time of the waterways of the Delta are virtually empty. At Arroyan you will find a simple menu of, you guessed it, meat.What better way to wash the various sausages and part of the cow with a few glasses of a white wine punch.

Asia de Club- This bar is hardly worth mentioning unless you like uber trendy bars, except that we did experience a funny situation. We had been walking around the fantastic port area, with it´s award winning buildings and restaurants when we thought it would be nice to sit and have a glass of wine al fresco. Asia de Club looked appealing although empty, with it's great comfy couches loooking out on the water. We asked whether we would be able to sit outside and the waitress said no as it was too cold (at 24 degrees C). After a little negotiating we were allowed to sit outside and enjoy a bottle of Malbec in the warm evening. You will find that whilst 24 degrees would make the average European strip down to a modest, thin layer, the Argentinians are bringing out their fleeces and quilted jackets. http://www.asiadecuba.com.ar/

La Cabrera, Palermo-  After 4 days and nights of meat J and I were still impressed by th equality of meat at this small restaurant in Palermo. There is a no reservation policy, but whilst you wait outside you are given champagne.  Around 70% of the tables are tourists, but maybe it's that wait that puts locals off as the meat is amazing. J literally had a meat high in this place. A tip is to share a starter then a main, as the meat comes with an overload of side dishes that no one around us could finish. If you are in Buenos Aires definitely try this restaurant or it's sister restaurant La Cabrera Norte. http://www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar/

Cabaña las Lilas- Lunch Day 5. By now I was thinking that my body would be fighting the effects of a protein overload, but there was still room. Cabaña las Lilas is huge. Possibly the biggest restaurant I have eaten in, yet the food and service were of a high standard due to the kitchen staff of 40 and staff of 30 or more. If you have time for a 2 hour lunch head down to the Porto Madero to pay homage to Argentinian beef. 4.http://www.laslilas.com/restaurant.php

Barbaro Bar- Most evenings we would go for dinner which would effectively wipe you out from then bar hoping or clubbing. A couple of evenings though were spent at Barbaro just a stones throw and a bit from our hotel the Marriot Plaza. Bar o Bar is a great non touristy bar that serves a range of drinks and bar food. If you are in the area down town you should definitely try and find. http://www.barbarobar.com.ar/galeria.html

Modena-this restaurant and bar is situated approx 10 minutes walk from MALBA opposite the university. I was hungry so wandered unexpectedly into this strange concepted space with Mercedes memorabilia and it's own radio station on site.  It's a busy place, service is a bit haphazard, but my lunch of pumpkin quiche and salad was delicious.

Graffiti Tour-Another top tip for Buenos Aires is this tour organised by http://graffitimundo.com/en/  
whom promotes Buenos Aires street art and graffiti artists. Over the past decade the street artists of Buenos Aires really have produced really inspiring and beautiful work. The tour will take you around a few areas by foot and minibus, taking in a few galleries and finally a grafitti covered bar with more art for sale.


Cafe de Arts/ MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos )- Another must do. Although the museum is smaller than those you might find in other big cities of the world, it's definitely worth a visit to broaden your knowledge of Latin American art. Really insightful and wonderful work. MALBA also has a great design and book shop. Next to MALBA is Cafe de Arts with a great modern menu. A perfect destination for lunch, but make sure you reserve if you want a table outside as this is one of the hottest seats at lunch time. http://www.malba.org.ar/web/home.php

Japanese Gardens- Not far from MALBA are the Japanese Gardens. A real oasis in the centre of this bustling city, worth a quick visit. http://www.jardinjapones.com.ar/
















Marriott Plaza Hotel: Once upon a time, this hotel would of been the Queen of hotels in Buenos Aires. 2010 is her centinerary year, but unfortunately I think Marriott and it's investors have to dig deep into their pockets to save this hotel from falling from grace. The location is central across from the historic Plaza san Martin. I shouldn't really complain as my accommodation was paid for by the conference we were attending. If I was to personally chose a hotel I would opt for a smaller boutique offering in Palermo.

City Tour  : Still to add review.

5 comments:

Unknown said...

Excelent blog! congrats! find it very interesting, thanks a lot!

Unknown said...

¡Que divertido! My last night in B.A., we ate at La Cabrera too.

It remains one of the best meals I've ever had, mostly for the deliciously inventive side dishes. Green bean salsa, a rainbow of tapenades, quail's egg. I'm salivating again.

Thanks for reminding me what the place was called!

Unknown said...

Muy Bueno Cat . Estoy orgullosa de tu blog
Besos picu

Unknown said...

Wow, great post, it's really useful for me since i'm going to argentina in just a few weeks, so i'm taking note of every place you mentioned. If you like modern art you should also check the Museum of Modern Art (Adolfo Alsina 963, 1º floor). I'm also looking for apartments for rent in buenos aires, what neighborhood do you recommend ?

Lucy said...

Thanks a lot for sharing this post!! I think it will be usefull after the tour in argentina I'm planning to do.. many people told me that the argentinian food is amazing, I can't wait to taste it :)
thanks again for all the info you are showing here
and of course, if you have any other recommendation for me, that would be great!